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Thread: Poker

  1. #826
    The Wheel is Forever silentstriker's Avatar
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    Well, if you know he has a straight, generally a fold would be in order , unless you have crazy number of outs and you're getting the odds.

    In terms of when you have the straight, it all depends on A) position b) opponent. Hard to be more specific without a specific situation. 90% of what you do in Poker depends on A) and B). It could be anywhere between a fold (unless you had the nuts obv) to an all in depending on those two.
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  2. #827
    Cricketer Of The Year Mr Casson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentstriker View Post
    Well, if you know he has a straight, generally a fold would be in order , unless you have crazy number of outs and you're getting the odds.

    In terms of when you have the straight, it all depends on A) position b) opponent. Hard to be more specific without a specific situation. 90% of what you do in Poker depends on A) and B). It could be anywhere between a fold (unless you had the nuts obv) to an all in depending on those two.
    Yeah that answer made sense in parts to me but it doesn't really address what I wanted to know. That's mainly because I framed the question badly and for that I apologise.

    What I want to know is how do you play when you can see you could be coming up against a straight? The other half of the question was, assuming you haven't landed it on the flop, how would you go about playing a hand for a straight? For example, would you need to have the assurances of at least a high pair behind you, and when do you take the risk of the turn/river cards being the one you need?
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  3. #828
    Cricketer Of The Year Mr Casson's Avatar
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    Also, something I failed to address from your answer SS, is that at the moment I'm practicing a lot over the internet against faceless opponents (while doing other tasks too, so I don't have too much time to think about who I'm playing. So that doesn't factor into my strategy so much at the moment.

  4. #829
    The Wheel is Forever silentstriker's Avatar
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    It absolutely should. You need to watch those players, and learn what type. How you play against a super tight player, vs. a super aggressive player is a hugely different. You should get tracking software that will log every hand and give you analysis. That way, you can log a good number of hands against opponents and you can have an idea immediatly when you sit down.


  5. #830
    Cricketer Of The Year Mr Casson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentstriker View Post
    It absolutely should. You need to watch those players, and learn what type. How you play against a super tight player, vs. a super aggressive player is a hugely different. You should get tracking software that will log every hand and give you analysis. That way, you can log a good number of hands against opponents and you can have an idea immediatly when you sit down.
    Thanks.

    And the rest of the question?

  6. #831
    The Wheel is Forever silentstriker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Casson View Post
    What I want to know is how do you play when you can see you could be coming up against a straight?
    Do the odds first. You should be calculating the pot odds on every play, but it's especially important if you don't have other information to go on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Casson View Post
    assuming you haven't landed it on the flop, how would you go about playing a hand for a straight? For example, would you need to have the assurances of at least a high pair behind you, and when do you take the risk of the turn/river cards being the one you need?
    Inside straight draw and nothing else? Much that hand faster than that guy can say 'bet'. Unless you're getting ridiculous odds that rarely happen in real life.

    Open ended? You should try to get the odds in your favor, which many times they will be, so you can raise that if you want, or simply check it down ideally. If I had top pair and a open ended straight draw, I'd probably be strong enough to call, otherwise I'd be raising or folding.

    Remember that you need a stronger hand to call than to raise. Most people forget that, even at mid levels, but it's vitally important in poker that you're raising and folding more than you're calling. I mention it here because this theory rears its head in a drawing situation most often, when most people misplay it.

  7. #832
    Cricket Web: All-Time Legend Uppercut's Avatar
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    The classic rookie mistake is on the flop with a flush draw or open-ended straight draw. The opponent makes a standard continuation bet of about 2/3 the pot, you look at the (say) $135 in the pot with $55 to call, do a quick pot odds calculation (you're about a 35% shot here) and call because you think you're getting a good deal. Then the opponent fires a second barrel on a dry turn and you're forced to fold. In truth you were only getting 18% odds because if the turn didn't hit you weren't going to get to see a river.

    Personally, depending on the opponent, I like the semi-bluff. I'd re-raise all-in. If they'd hit the flop or were holding an overpair they'll probably call, but you've still got a 35% chance of taking down the pot. If they hadn't, they'll fold and you'll take down a handy pot anyway. It's a combination of the chance that they'll fold a better hand and the chance that they'll call and lose that makes it a good move.

    Don't do it all the time though, obviously. Do it against opponents who always make the c-bet on the flop (me, for example), or those who will fold to re-raises. It takes a bit of discipline to fold in this spot. A lot of players at low levels will call with overcards that haven't hit because they're just too pretty to throw away. The semi-bluff is too complex to play against an idiot, and you'll get much better chances to take his money later.

    Your stack size is crucial too (or, more accurately, the smallest out of your opponent's stack size and your stack size). If it's too small, your all-in won't carry any weight and all you're doing is putting your money in the pot when the other guy's the favourite. If it's too big, you're not getting enough money from your opponent's folds to make up for when they call and their hand holds up. A re-raise without going all-in is pretty worthless, you're just wasting fold equity because if your opponent bets for the rest of your stack you'll have to call for value anyway. The exception is when your opponent is terrified of value bets and hence more likely to fold to a small raise than a big one.

    If in doubt, there's no harm in throwing away hands like that. Pick your spots. But as SS says, you usually want to be re-raising or folding rather than calling.

    One more thing to watch out for- alternative outs. If you're hold AKc with the board showing two clubs, and you put your opponent on top pair, Jacks, your overcards make you favourite. 15 cards- three aces, three kings and nine clubs- give you the pot.
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  8. #833
    International Coach GotSpin's Avatar
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    Shipping and hoping isn't always the best strategy. I prefer to only play straight draws when both you and your opponents have deep stacks, allowing you to play the hand in a number of completely different ways and gain maximum value for the times that you make it.

  9. #834
    The Wheel is Forever silentstriker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uppercut View Post
    The classic rookie mistake is on the flop with a flush draw or open-ended straight draw. The opponent makes a standard continuation bet of about 2/3 the pot, you look at the (say) $135 in the pot with $55 to call, do a quick pot odds calculation (you're about a 35% shot here) and call because you think you're getting a good deal. Then the opponent fires a second barrel on a dry turn and you're forced to fold. In truth you were only getting 18% odds because if the turn didn't hit you weren't going to get to see a river.
    Bingo. Raising and folding are both superior moves to that call. I'd go with the fold unless I also hit a top pair or had both flush and straight draws or something.

  10. #835
    Cricket Web: All-Time Legend Uppercut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Got_Spin View Post
    Shipping and hoping isn't always the best strategy. I prefer to only play straight draws when both you and your opponents have deep stacks, allowing you to play the hand in a number of completely different ways and gain maximum value for the times that you make it.
    It makes me a fair bit of money against the rabbit-holers. They have to fold after their c-bet on about half the flops they see and out of the rest of the time you're sucking out on them 1 in 3 times anyway. It's great value.

  11. #836
    International Coach GotSpin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uppercut View Post
    It makes me a fair bit of money against the rabbit-holers. They have to fold after their c-bet on about half the flops they see and out of the rest of the time you're sucking out on them 1 in 3 times anyway. It's great value.
    I'm just saying your reads need to be spot on for this to work

  12. #837
    International Regular bryce's Avatar
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    I read in previous pages about people wanting to set up a CW private tournament. I sent an inquiry to FT. If enough people are keen then I don't mind setting one up. Here's the response I got, I was thinking maybe 6-handed 3000 starting $2.50+$1? Anyone who might be keen let us know what you think or if you'd rather play on another site etc..

    Thank you for your e-mail. I can confirm that the maximum blind levels
    available for private tournaments is 10 minute blind levels. The minimum
    rake/juice for private double stack tournaments with 3000 starting chips
    is $1 and the minimum rake/juice for private super stack tournaments with
    5000 starting chips is $3. Please reply with the following basic
    tournament information:

    Name/Title: {at most 25 characters}
    Password: {up to 15 characters}
    Date:
    Time: (Eastern/Server Time)
    Buyin: {like $5 + $.50, or $10 + $1}
    Game: {usually Hold'em}
    Limit: {usually NL, but could be Fixed or Pot Limit}
    Tournament Deals: (Would you like to disable the make a deal option?)
    If no, would you like to set a reserve amount (typically 5%)
    Late Reg: would you like to disable late registration?
    Amount of minimum players expected:

    The standard payout structure for tournaments is a 9 handed payout
    structure and it is possible to view the percentage payouts on this link:
    Online Poker at Full Tilt Poker - Tournaments: Payouts

    The other options available include 8handed, 6 handed, Sit & Go payouts,
    winner takes all, final table (top 9) as well as a 20% payout structure.
    It is also possible to set up payouts limited to freeroll tournaments with
    a lot of players like a 27 place or 45 place which will payout that number
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    If you have any questions, do not hesitate to reply to this e-mail.
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  13. #838
    Cricket Web: All-Time Legend Uppercut's Avatar
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    I'd love to, but there's a major difficulty in organising online poker tournaments. Everyone plays somewhere different. There's no money in my FT account and there's no way I'm giving them another cent in this lifetime.

  14. #839
    International Regular bryce's Avatar
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    Haha fair enough. Just reckon it would be cool if we made it a semi-regualr thing, I get so sick of all these online donks. I don't have money on my FT account either, but would make a deposit if it meant a CW tournament.
    What if I 100% financed a CW freeroll lol then maybe after that we can see if anyone would be keen on regular CW buy-in tournaments...
    Let me know who would be keen on the freeroll/buy-in
    Last edited by bryce; 14-12-2009 at 02:40 PM.

  15. #840
    Cricket Web: All-Time Legend Uppercut's Avatar
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    Haha, I'd feel bad about you financing it!

    I wouldn't mind depositing a bit for a tournament, except that unless there's been changes the minimum deposit at FTP is 30 and if you drop a penny under that they hold the rest of your money ransom. I'm a student, I can't afford to throw more money at those ****s

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